Puppy Socialization
An article in April’s issue of Dog Fancy magazine described the process of turning your new puppy into a "people-friendly" dog. Written by Katie Matola, it emphasizes the importance of how the socialization process begins at a very young age. We have summarized the main points as follows:
The puppy’s brain is at the developmental stage; he is primed to learn to accept new experiences. This occurs between the ages of 4 to 12 weeks. Puppies have a better chance of getting along with other pets if you introduce them early.
This "socialization window" means that dogs that are not socialized properly during the first three months of their lives may have severely undeveloped social skills. Beyond three months, anything that is introduced is "secondary" socializing. Puppies that have little or no socialization during this first twelve weeks may end up acting shy and afraid of any new people or experience.
Outside the home, myriad socialization opportunities await you and your dog. From umbrellas, people wearing hats, men with facial hair, and large crowds of people; to wheel chairs, cars, and bicycles; new things are around every corner. The more of these you can introduce to your dog when he is a puppy, the more confident he will likely be as an adult. Don’t forget to introduce your puppy to children, whose high – pitched voices and unexpected movements can frighten or arouse aggression in adult dogs that haven’t had the chance to get familiar with them. Closely supervise meetings between puppies and children to ensure a positive experience for both. “One of the best sources of socialization will come from a 4 to 5-year-old supervised child,” said Suzanne Johnson a certified animal behaviorist. “Children will lie on the ground and play with the puppy. They play like another puppy.”
Socialization does not stop at a certain age. Even though patterns may be set early, it is a continual process . . . You must continually exercise and socialize a dog through out their lifetime. Puppy socialization plants seeds of confidence and good behavior; ongoing socialization lets both you and your dog reap the rewards.
Did you know?
The Yorkshire terrier was originally a 15 lb. dog,
bred to hunt rodents!
Puppy Kindergarden
We would encourage each and every puppy parent to get your puppy off on the right paw by enrolling in Puppy Head Start classes offered at PETsMART, or in classes offered by your local dog-training club. We would recommend waiting till your puppy has completed all three sets of puppy shots (about 16 to 20 weeks old). We believe that a 8 to 10-week-old puppy is just not mentally ready and able to retain all that will be required of him in training classes. In addition, during these first several weeks, you should be developing a close bond and trust relationship with your puppy; he/she will have more confidence after being in your care for a month or so. The time you invest in these early weeks with your new puppy will pay great dividends in the relationship between you and your companion.
The Puppy Head Start classes (or classes at your local dog-training club) are a profitable time: not only will your puppy develop better social skills, but you will be among you own “puppy parent” peers who are probably experiencing certain shared frustrations and who might also have many questions. It’s like a support group; a great time to share and get many questions answered. It will build a strong, long lasting foundation that you can build upon throughout the coming years, and will become the best investment you ever made for you and your puppy. You will have a more well-mannered puppy, and you will become an even better puppy parent!
For more info on Puppy Head Start classes offered in your area, click into www.petsmart.com/training
Potty Training
Did you know that house soiling ranks as one of the top reasons dogs end up in a animal shelters?
The main emphasis of housetraining is to teach a puppy where TO GO, not where not to go!
It is strongly recommended that you be home with your puppy during the first two weeks following arrival. When you can spend the majority of the daylight hours with him/her, you will begin to see positive results twice as fast as someone who isn’t available as much and therefore cannot give as much supervision. Please remember that puppies do have accidents and that each puppy learns on an individual basis. Just be patient!
Toy breed puppies have smaller stomachs, and after the first few days, they seem to eat in a browsing fashion due to the many distractions and smells of their new environment. They become particularly sidetracked if there is another pet in the home. If your puppy knows he/she has continuous access to food for the first week, then he/she will not overeat. Start them on a feeding schedule the second week, generally two or three times a day depending on the individual puppy. Remove the meal after 30 minutes: this will help your puppy to better develop a regular eliminating schedule.
INDOOR TRAINING: We further recommend using a small confined area (such as a half bathroom or small utility room) that can be closed off with a baby gate. (I have had great success with the “Super yard”, a portable, floorless playpen, which can be arranged several ways. (see photo above). It can be purchased at Wal-Mart. Pet stores offer something similar made from a gold metal-like material. It is usually called a “pet exercise pen”.
Generally, 30-40 minutes after eating or drinking, your puppy will need to go to the bathroom. Pick up your puppy, place him/her inside the confined area (with 1-2 puppy pads covering an area large enough so the puppy won’t miss), tell your puppy to “go potty”, and give him/her up to 10 minutes. When puppy does his/her business, praise him/her and give a treat. (This is the only time I give treats to a young puppy. Bil-Jac brand liver treats in a carton work well, but any small, chewable treat will do.) At night, if the puppy is in your bedroom -- whether on the bed or in a crate next to your bed -- when you hear him whine or whimper in the middle of the night, take him and place him in your bathtub (where you have previously place two puppy pads)! This will help, and as the puppy gets older this night potty time can be eliminated. Remember that though you are doing most of the work in the beginning, your puppy will begin to catch on and go by himself/herself. After a couple of weeks, or when you feel your puppy is comfortable with the routine, remove the gate or open the exercise pen to allow your puppy to enter/exit the potty area alone.
OUTDOOR TRAINING: First, show your puppy where you want him/her to eliminate. Use a harness and leash to take her to the same place each time, generally near the front or back door. Stand there for about 5 minutes (It might take longer the first few days because your puppy is doing more exploring things such as new smells, surroundings, etc). If she/he does not go, try again every hour. When she/he does go, PRAISE them and give reward (Cooked chicken or Bil-Jac liver treats are good, too). If you have the puppy eliminate in the same area, he will smell his own scent and note that it his his/her territory, therefore he/she will be more comfortable and find it easier to be successful.
In your times of frustration, as you are cleaning up messes, remember that this is only a season in your puppy’s life and that, this too, shall pass! After all, if a child never made mistakes, they wouldn’t need parents! Good luck!
Grooming
Before each puppy leaves our home, bound for their new home, they are given a through grooming -- or shall we say -- a day at the "beauty shop". We first bath your puppy using Pet Silk pet shampoo. I have chosen this product because it works. I have seen the quick results in the condition of a puppy’s hair in just minutes. I use their Pet Silk conditioner on those puppies needing that extra moisture for their coat and skin.
We remove any excess hair from the ears to prevent dirt getting embedded in the ears and in the canal itself and thus providing a home for unwanted ear_mites (reference our Perfect Puppy Health tab on this page for more info). Then ears are flushed with ear cleansing solution made by “VETS Solutions”, and finally each ear is swabbed out with a cotton swab to further remove any dirt that was loosened during flushing.
Nails are trimmed to desired length. Every puppy parent needs to keep an eye on their puppy's nail growth. You will be surprised on how fast they will grow! For small puppies, I use a large toenail clipper. If you cut them too short, the nail will begin to bleed: Don’t panic! ALWAYS have on hand a product called “Kwik Stop” styptic powder. You can find it at any PETsMART or pet shop. Place a small amount on tip of nail and bleeding will stop immediately.
If necessary, trim excess hair on paw pads. Also, but only if necessary, trim excess hair around rectal area to prevent any waste matter from building up and creating a “poop ball”, and which can lead to full rectal blockage.
Perfect Puppy Health
Here you will find essential information and resources which will help you to provide the very best in health and nutrition for your perfect puppy. Remember, the best care doesn't always have to be the most expensive. We use our experience to help our puppies live a perfect life. -- Carrie Sawyer, The Puppy Matchmaker
Your complete satisfaction is our Number One Priority! This page is dedicated to helping our prospective puppy parents -- especially first-time parents -- recognize the signs of internal parasite infestation. The following is a brief explanation of each of the most common canine parasites:
Hookworm
Hookworms are evil little creatures that feed off the intestinal walls. They are passed to other animals through soil, where eggs have been laid. These are incredibly easy to contract. The larvae that live in the soil can enter the body through the feet and travel throughout the system until they reach the intestines where they stay to feed off of blood and lay eggs that shed once again, in feces and contaminate the ground.
Tapeworm
Tapeworms are long, segmented worms that live in an infected person's or animal's intestines. These are most often noticed when the worms start to shed segments full of eggs, which are often found around the anus, or in stools. These segments look like grains of rice when dry, but are squishy and may be moving when fresh. Tapeworms are spread by ingesting fleas that have eaten the eggs, or by ingesting egg sacs from feces.
Roundworm
The most common of internal parasites beside Tapeworms, roundworms frequently infect pets. They look suspiciously like thin spaghetti noodles and can often be found in feces with the naked eye.
Whipworm
These are long, whip-shaped worms that are ingested either from the feces of infected animals, or spread through other bodily fluids. They are found in the colons of animals, and shed eggs through feces approximately three months later.
The following is a veterinarian's description of ear mites, their characteristics and recommended treatments:
Question: My dog has ear mites. What are these and how did she get them?
Answer: Ear mites are an external parasite that can infect dogs, cats and more rarely, humans. The mite's name is Otodectes cynotis. Otodectes mites are large enough that they can sometimes be seen with the naked eye and are easy to see with magnification.
Ear mites live in the ears and on the skin of pets infected with them. The mite lives its entire life on the pet and it takes about 3 weeks for a mite egg to develop into an adult mite. The adult mites are very mobile and can live for some time off of a dog or cat, which enables it to be fairly contagious.
The most common sign of ear mite infection is shaking of the head and ears. Dogs may also scratch at their ears, rub their face and in severe cases may even cause bleeding sores behind their ears in their effort to relieve the discomfort from the mites. The intense itching associated with these mites is thought to be due to a hypersensitivity reaction, which is similar to an allergy. Some pets can be infected without showing signs of itching or head shaking, apparently because they don't develop the hypersensivity reaction.
Ear mites are more commonly diagnosed in cats than they are in dogs but they are a significant cause of ear infections in dogs, too. Dark brown to black debris accumulates in the ears of infected pets and the mites may be visible as small moving white specks on the debris. Secondary infection with bacteria or yeast is common in ear mite infections and may complicate the diagnosis. The mites can live on the skin and some dogs and cats appear to have infections that affect only the skin, causing small sores to develop in affected areas. It is important to treat the ears for mites and the whole pet with a product that is capable of killing the mites. Most flea and tick products will kill ear mites on the skin.
In multiple pet households it is important to treat all the pets and to clean the environment, considering the use of premise control insecticides in persistent cases. Ear mites are susceptible to many medications, including pyrethrins, rotenone, fibronil, thiabendazole and ivermectins. It is necessary to treat for at least three to four weeks in most instances to be sure to kill the adult mites and any eggs that may hatch later.
Many veterinary clients treat their dog's ears with over-the-counter products for ear mites based on the presence of ear inflammation or exudate in the ears, doing this for weeks or months prior to giving up and having their dog's ears examined. There are a number of causes of ear infection in dogs and it is best to have your vet examine your dog's ears to determine if the cause of ear irritation is ear mites or another infection. Doing this can save your dog from weeks of pain or discomfort.
Mike Richards, DVM
7/17/99
Your complete satisfaction is our Number One Priority! This page is dedicated to helping our prospective puppy parents -- especially first-time parents -- recognize the signs of coccidia, a potentially life-threatening intestinal microbe. The following is a definition and description of coccidia, their characteristics and recommended treatments:
What are Coccidia?
Coccidia are small protozoans (one-celled organisms) that multiply in the intestinal tracts of dogs and cats, most commonly in kittens and puppies less than six months of age, in adult animals whose immune system is suppressed or in animals who are stressed in other ways (e.g., change in ownership, other disease present).
In cats and dogs, most coccidia are of the genus called Isospora. Isospora canis and I. ohioensis are the species most often encountered in dogs. Regardless of which species is present we generally refer to the disease as coccidiosis. As a puppy ages it tends to develop a natural immunity to the effects of coccidia. As an adult it may carry coccidia in its intestines, shed the cyst in the feces, but experience no ill effects.
How are coccidia transmitted?
A puppy is not born with the coccidia organisms in its intestine. However, once born, the puppy is frequently exposed to its mother's feces and if the mother is shedding the infective cysts in her feces then the young animals will likely ingest them and coccidia will develop within their intestines. Since young puppies, usually those less than six months of age, have no immunity to coccidia, the organisms reproduce in great numbers and parasitize the young animal's intestines. Oftentimes, this has severe effects.
From exposure to the coccidia in feces to the onset of the illness is about 13 days. Most puppies who are ill from coccidia are, therefore, two weeks of age and older. Although most infections are the result of spread from the mother, this is not always the case. Any infected kitten or puppy is contagious to other puppies. In breeding facilities, shelters, animal hospitals, etc., it is wise to isolate those infected from those that are not.
What are the symptoms of coccidiosis?
The primary sign of an animal suffering with coccidiosis is diarrhea. The diarrhea may be mild to severe, depending on the level of infection. Blood and mucous may be present, especially in advanced cases. Severely affected animals may also vomit, lose their appetite, become dehydrated, and in some instances, die from the disease.
Most infected puppies encountered by the authors are in the four to twelve week age group. The possibility of coccidiosis should always be considered when a loose stool or diarrhea is encountered in this age group. A microscopic fecal exam by a veterinarian will detect the cysts confirming a diagnosis.
What is the treatment of coccidiosis?
It should be mentioned that stress plays a role in the development of coccidiosis. It is not uncommon for a seemingly healthy puppy to arrive at its new home and develop diarrhea several days later leading to a diagnosis of coccidia. If the puppy has been at the new home for less than thirteen days, then it had coccidia before it arrived. Remember the incubation period (from exposure to illness) is about thirteen days. If the puppy has been with its new owner several weeks, then the exposure to coccidia most likely occurred after the animal arrived at the new home. Usually coccidia were present only to surface during the stressful period of the puppy adjusting to a new home.
Fortunately coccidiosis is treatable. Drugs such as sulfadimethoxine (Albon) and trimethoprim-sulfadiazine (Tribrissen) have been effective in the treatment and prevention of coccidia. Because these drugs do not kill the organisms, but rather inhibit their reproduction capabilities, elimination of coccidia from the intestine is not rapid. By stopping the ability of the protozoa to reproduce, time is allowed for the puppy's own immunity to develop and remove the organisms. Drug treatments of five or more days are usually required.
How is coccidiosis prevented or controlled?
Because coccidia are spread by the feces of carrier animals, it is very important to practice strict sanitation. All fecal material should be removed. Housing needs to be such that food and water cannot become contaminated with feces. Clean water should be provided at all times. Most disinfectants do not work well against coccidia; incineration of the feces, and steam cleaning, immersion in boiling water or a 10% ammonia solution are the best methods to kill coccidia. Coccidia can withstand freezing.
Cockroaches and flies can mechanically carry coccidia from one place to another. Mice and other animals can ingest the coccidia and when killed and eaten by a dog, for instance, can infect the dog. Therefore, insect and rodent control are very important in preventing coccidiosis.
The coccidia species of dogs and cats do not infect humans.
In each Puppy Care Package, or included in your shipping info, will be a NuVet Labs™ brochure which explains in more detail the benefits of this excellent canine dietary supplement in helping to ensure that your new puppy will grow into a healthy adult. I have had my adult dogs on this product for about 2 months, and I have seen the best results in their coats becoming silkier and shinier. Based on my experience as a breeder, I would highly recommend this supplement. However, I would like for you as puppy parents to read this information and decide for yourself and your puppy. Please click to the following link: www.nuvet.com for more information.
These exclusive products are not available through any pet store, large or small. Should you decide to try NuVet Labs™ products, you may order them directly online: you will need to use my dealer code: 97093, or give my name, Carrie Sawyer.
The following is a short excerpt from the NuVet Labs™ brochure:
"Allergies, skin and coat problems, arthritis, tumors, cancer, cataracts, strokes and heart disease are just a few of the 50 major diseases caused by free radicals. Unfortunately these diseases lead to suffering and premature death in our pets. The Veterinarians, Physicians, Pharmacists, and Nutritional Scientists of NuVet Labs™ have blended a precise combination of human grade, natural vitamins, minerals, herbs and antioxidants proven to combat the ravages of free radicals. Puppies and kittens to senior dogs and cats should start on the path of disease protection today."
This page is dedicated to helping our prospective puppy parents -- especially first-time parents --
recognize the vital importance of a high quality canine health nutrition program for the best health of your new perfect puppy:
The BEST is NOT the Most Expensive . . .
We have seen the BEST results with Royal Canin . . . it's not just another "dog food": it's Canine Health Nutrition that is unmatched for quality at a most reasonable price. Your investment in your new perfect puppy is best protected by high quality nutrition for good health and long life.
Our "Yorkie puppies" are raised on what science and research has proven to be the best Size Nutrition Dog Food
offered here in the U.S. and guess what . . . it's not the most expensive.
PLEASE NOTE:
All of our health warrantees are null and void if our puppies are not kept on Royal Canin size nutrition formula.
There are so many lower grade dog food formulas that are not what they appear to be. Many dog food formulas are thrown together to fit what ever current trend the Dog Industry is appearing to have. We have see fabulous results with hair coat quality teeth condition and much more!
*****
is the #1 selling dog food in Europe and in France. They have the largest canine research facility in the world located in France. They have taken the guess work out of dog nutrition and turned to science for answers. Over 50% of the 2003 entries in The Westminster Dog Show were feeding their dogs and puppies Royal Canin!
*****
Click HERE to view the Size Nutrition formula for Yorkie Puppies.
*****
Click HERE to view the "Yorkshire 28" program for adult Yorkshire Terriers.
*****
is sold at all Petco and PETsMART locations in the U.S.A.
or to find the nearest distributor or pet store,
click on the Royal Canin Logo above.
Medical Care here in the US is very much on the rise for both man and beast. Depending on what area of the Nation you live would determine wether or not you would need Pet Insurance and what type of plan. Prices in the Midwest are not nearly as expensive as I have seen on both of the coasts and down south. It seems to almost double! To give you an idea I pay an average of $100 for either spay or neutering of a puppy/dog 7lbs or less. Rabies $15, Puppy 5 way shots $10, Fecal exam $10 etc. I have done some research online. If you are located in any large metro cities found in the east or west coast states and southern states such as Florida, I would recommend getting some plan but the ultimate decision is yours. You can click on any of these logos of Pet Insurance companies and see which company offers the best plan for you and your pet.
Click on the below logos to find out more information about the Pet Insuracnce plans each of these companies provide.
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Yorkie Puppy Development
Do you think these two pictures are of the same puppy?
Read this article and then find out at bottom of the page.
Did you know the Yorkshire Terrier Club of America (YTCA) states on their website that no buyer should take possession of their yorkie puppy before 12 weeks of age ,and to not buy from any breeder that will give you their puppy before 12 weeks. Well, there are good reasons for this warning: here are just a few . . .
DID YOU KNOW…
At 8 weeks, you cannot tell what color your puppy will be as an adult:
The majority of yorkie puppies are born black and tan; I am not counting the chocolate and tan yorkie puppies or other rare unrecognized colors. At the age of 12 week, a breeder is able to better tell the adult color of the puppy due to the fact that the puppy coat is shedding and the silky adult coat is coming in. So if you are adamant about your puppy’s color, you would need to wait till at least 12 weeks.
At 8 weeks, all yorkie puppies appear "Teacup size":
"Teacup size": This is where MANY first time yorkie buyers get fooled. The buyer looks at pictures of a puppy inside, around or next to a teacup, mug or pop can, etc.; and the words “ teacup yorkie” are found in the description, the price is "right" and the rest is "history". Then the unsuspecting buyer is fully baffled when their little "teacup" turns 16 weeks and has almost doubled in size! This happened to ME: my first yorkie female I bought at 8 weeks of age; she weighed 2 lbs., 8 oz. At that time I wanted her for breeding, which meant that she need to stay within the "Yorkshire Terrier Breed Standard", which is 7 lbs. or less. Well, at 16 weeks of age. she was almost 4 lbs! According to the YTCA, IF you take weight of the 12-week-old yorkie puppy and double it, this give you a better idea of what your puppy will weigh as an adult, but it's certainly not a guarantee! What did I learn? “I won’t be kicked by a mule twice!”
At 8 weeks of age, yorkie puppies are not fully weaned:
Yorkie puppies need more time to mature and develop than a large breed puppy. Many puppies that you see on our website that will mature at 6 lbs. or less will not have been fully weaned of the mom until 7 - 8 weeks. Then this same puppy needs time to socialize and begin to develop their individual traits. We observe their behavior toward its siblings, separate from the mother. This takes time and it helps the breeder prepare their puppies to begin to cope with separation anxiety which may occur after they are placed in their new home where there are no other pets.
An 8-week-old puppy does not handle stress well:
Legally, a puppy can be shipped at 8 weeks of age but is not best (this is my learned opinion, and I certainly not alone in this.) Many of the better yorkie breeders will not ship their puppies until 10 - 12 weeks of age, and if they are going to be "teacup" size, even longer: this is not just best for the puppy but also for you, the owner! When a puppy is 12 weeks old, it obtains it second set of puppy shots/worming, then the breeder can observe for a few days to see that the puppy has not had a bad reaction from the shot. It is a fact that a puppy gains no immunity from the shot until about 7 – 10 days AFTER it was given. Generally, the older the puppy, the better its immune system is working and fighting off bacteria and viruses.
Most hypoglycemia shocks occur between 6 - 12 weeks:
This is one reason why unscrupulous breeders part with their puppies at 8 weeks, they don’t want the time-consuming responsibility of getting a puppy through this critical stage. They might very well lose the puppy and thus their profit. Instead, they sell their puppies cheaply and prematurely, so they transfer this responsibility to the new, and often naive puppy owner. The seller might justify his decision because he sold that puppy cheap. An 8-week-old puppy is just starting to adjust to dry /moist dog food. Ask any reputable yorkie breeder: not all puppies are created equal! It sometimes takes a few days to get their puppies accustomed to their new diet. By 12 weeks of age, the puppy has been on a routine, steady and stable diet and is on the road to gaining body fat and forming muscle mass. The more food a puppy regularly eats, the more body fat/weight is put on which helps prevent “sugar shock”.
AND NOW THE ANSWER…
Yes! This is the same puppy
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